Saturday, June 17, 2017

Day 28 - Iles du Havre-Maison, Grosse-Ile & Grande-Entrée

0 km - Total so far 1,836.40 km  

Relive:  (Driven and not pedaled)

An update on the tire situation. Thanks to you, we got information on four sports stores on the islands and ended up purchasing a tire at a place called Véli Vélo. It is not a Schwable Touring tire but it is close enough in dimension and can be inflated to a high pressure. We will use it on Hélène's front wheel and if found suitable we will use her Schwable front tire as my rear tire. Once we get on the mainland in Nova Scotia, we will look into ordering a tire for delivery at the post office. So again thank you to all those that got involved to help.

It is hard to concentrate on the blog as we are listening to CFIM 92.7 radio bingo (plays at 6 p.m. on Saturdays and is bilingual)

Hélène on her scooter on her way to exchange it for a rental car.
You can see Ile du Havre-Aubert in the background
In the first picture posted for Day 27 the caption said: "Waiting to leave to pickup the scooters. Far behind me is l'Ile d'Entrée". That is an error that should be "Ile du Havre-Aubert". We apologize for the error. 

These caution signs are everywhere near the cliffs. On the bike path,
parts of it had recently collapsed in the sea
Once we got the rental car, we headed North on Hwy 199 to drive and visit as much as we could of the remaining three accessible islands. On the must see places was the Fumoir d'Antan at Havre-aux-Maison. Being just the two of us, we got a grand tour of the place by the great-grand-daughter of the founder. There used to be 42 fumoirs in the good old days but there is only one left now that the hareng has all but disappeared. The hareng is smoked for 60 to 90 days depending on the temperature and humidity. The absolutely delicious smell just makes you hungry. At the end of the tour, you get to taste the product and it is delicious.

Fires are made of maple and birch (from the mainland) and saw dust. The smoke just sticks to you and everyone will know where you have been

Each piece of wood has up to 14 harengs and has to be hung by hand.
80,000 lbs of fish can be hung per fumoir

Smoked hareng shelflife is 12 months  
They just announced the name of the $3,000 bingo winner!

Cattle grazing on what is likely the highest piece of land in the islands
From the fumoir, we continued exploring inland and finally getting back on Hwy 199 towards Ile de Grande-Entrée on the North Sand Dunes. It is a straight stretch of road with few buildings until you get to the Seliene Salt Mine, just before you get to Grosse-Ile. The mine produces road salt used in Québec, Ontario and the Eastern United States.

Some of the many boats in the Grande-Entrée wharf

No warning that Hwy 199 ends just that the road disappears
 in the ocean 80.5 m hence

Looks like a big truck until the boat is completely loaded onto the trailer.

Saturday is boat moving day in Grande-Entrée. 
The boat on the left is also on a trailer

There are many little rocher percé all over the Magdalen Islands

We were waiting for the waves to come smashing again. 
The rocks near Old Harry Beach
It is a terrible picture below to show what I speak of but on the Magdalen Island there are a lot of brightly colored homes and they are all over the place. There are no perfectly laid out developments as we see back home. It looks like someone just sprinkled the houses about like rainbow colored sprinkles on cup cakes.  Behind the blue car in the picture below, you can see the three large garbage containers (compostable, garbage and recycling) found everywhere on the islands.  

You have to take my word for it about the rainbow colored
sprinkles on cup cakes. Here is someone else's photo that is a better rendition
As we sit here in the shelter, having supper, listening to CFMI music we can also hear the wind just howling out there. As we look out over the bay we can see the whitecaps getting bigger. We should have an interesting last night aux Iles de la Madeleine as the wind is expected to pick up. We will be wearing merino wool underwear and socks, puffy jackets and for some a warm tuque as we get to bed. I don't think it is cold enough for the wool gloves, yet! 

0 miles - Total so far 1,141.68 miles


  1. Hope your night was not to cold and managed to get a good rest. Wind is something you find all over the island;even the trees cannot fight it. Happy Father's day Daniel

  2. Je suis convaincu qu'Hélène avait tout prévu pour les nuits froides... lit double, douillette et DANIEL à ses côtés..une chaufferette naturelle.
    Qui sait, dans le fond d'une ARKEL, une couverture de survie(double) en alu !!!